Pousada Picinguaba

One of the best beach hotels I've stayed at. Wonderful location, great staff, beautiful surroundings, tasty, local food. We kayaked to the deserted beaches of the National Park and explored the river. We ate under the stars overlooking the bay. We drank cold beer in the local bar watching the local fishermen come and go, as turtles swam past. We stayed in Casa Verde - bliss to lie in the hammock with buffy tufted marmosets swinging past.

Just a little miracle. Nested on top of Pincinguaba - a small fishermen village enjoying the unique privilege of State natural park protection - this one-of-its kind boutique hotel created and run by Manu and Bianca is just the perfect place to unwind and immerge in nature! The view from the swimming pool and its amazing terrace is breathtaking all day long. And if that weren't enough you come across tucans, colibris, little sagui monkis and many flashy others! Just a stone's throw away is the Fazenda Beach, making you feel like a cast away: beautiful, immense... empty (but you can get your Caipirinha and grilled fish back to the hotel)! As a Frenchman I love food. And I was not disappointed! The breakfast is a delight, like everything else. All freshly prepared by great cooks, and 100% organic. Rediscover what taste means! I forgot to mention the sunsets, that you can also go enjoy from the house's boat moored in the bay, the great staff, and, and...and... But shhhht. Don't spread the word too much. Well, okay, a last tip: after enjoying the sea at Picinguaba rush to Fazenda Catuçaba to discover the charms of this property and the country side around it, retreat in fabulous secluded houses, ride horses and more! Go check out too! After a week at Picinguaba I'm finishing a one week stay there at the Lake house (yes it has its private lake!) Can't resolve to leave and get back to rainy Northern Europe!

Firstly a little about getting there. It is about 3 hours from Angra Dos Reiss and around 40 minutes away from Paraty. You come off the main coast road and drive for about a mile and a half down a pot holed road. Evidently it was meant to have been re-paved 18 months ago but the council have not got round to it (sound familiar?). The village (and it is a village of about 600) sits on a sandy strip of unmade road with half a dozen restaurants and bars on either side. It is a fishing village but a lot of the boats now seem to ferry tourists to nearby islands and beaches. The Pousada is up a hill so you need to walk the last 300 yards. Make sure you let the Pousada know your time of arrival and they will send someone to collect your bags. The Pousada itself sits on a hill and has a fantastic view out over the bay. It is very oldy worldy and much as you would expect on old Portuguese colonial house to be. I think it has around 20 rooms. We were slightly out of season so only us an a family there. The pool furniture was a bit uncomfortable and could do with renewing as could the upholstery for the lobby furniture. The shutters in the room were a bit of a struggle t open and close. However, none of this should take away from the sheer charm of the place. To be able to sit on the balcony and watch the parakeets, hummingbirds and other bird life was the ultimate destresser. Not much choice for the evening meals if you chose to eat there which we did for 4 nights. It was 4 fish dishes cooked in different ways and beautifully by Camilla. It is not a place for party animals. No tv and only internet access in the lobby. However, if you are looking for a place to relax and be at one with nature this is it, They have another property in the mountains which we would have loved to have tired. Maybe next time. Highly recommended.