Casa Nguluko

Once in a while, we have the rare privilege of staying somewhere that exemplifies all that is good about travel. Nguluko is one such place. As the photos suggest, the hotel is beautifully designed. It’s a zen-like, modern annex, connected to Liusan’s generational home. What a curious privilege it is, to be able to join her family around the home’s traditional Naxi courtyard for a bonfire dance, before retreating upstairs to a room of luxurious comforts, including an actual Dyson hairdryer and electronic toilet. But more important is what the photos cannot capture. In an age of faceless travel, dominated by flavourless hotel chains and mass-produced group tours, it’s rare to be able to feel a connection with folks eager to share a little slice of their life with you. Whether it be a morning stroll around the old village, a sharing session on Naxi culture and Dongba script, or even the aforementioned bonfire dance (replete with lived-in details like the family’s aging hams dangling off the awnings), it harkens back to a more serendipitous style of travel that made me smile. Even meals (all-inclusive!) are a chance to experience local culture. Locally foraged bracken and morels make an appearance, as do different varieties of liangfen, and Lijiang-style baba. There’s also the most moreish chicken hotpot — which I was going to drive out of the way to Luguzhen to try — but which she ended up serving for dinner on the second night. I’m quite obsessive when it comes to food, and yet everything I wanted to try here, except perhaps the rainbow trout and yak, were cooked up and served. Some small things could be improved: many stairways lack railings for the mobility impaired, and the ‘October’ room has an odd bathroom design where the toilet cubicle barely has space to close when one is seated. But such issues pale in comparison to the overall experience. Perhaps the biggest compliment I can give it is that in a world filled with a million wonderful destinations, this is one place I would choose to return to.

這個酒店，必須安利一波！對我們這種長期高壓工作的人來説，這兒簡直是治癒系天花板。一進院門那刻，，緊綳的神經瞬間鬆下來了，恍惚間有種回到老家的踏實感。 酒店設計簡潔大氣，每個細節裏都充滿質感，服務温暖用心，體貼周到，最驚喜的是跟着民宿管家小哥哥的山野徒步，本以為就是隨便走走，結果帶着我們認了十幾種野生植物。路上摘了半筐金雀花，當晚酒店廚師就做了金雀花煎蛋，雞蛋的焦香混着花的清甜，一口下去滿是山野的鮮氣。聽説六月中旬菌子季就到了，打算找時間再沖一趟，跟着當地人進山采菌子，想想就過癮！在這兒待着，連發呆都覺得舒坦，真心推薦給想放空的夥伴們。

沒想到避雨臨時投宿的酒店竟然是我住過體驗感最好的酒店！ 老婆大人對酒店的要求不是一般的高，自駕的這一路上沒輕吐槽我，就連住梅里泊度也是服務餐飲牢騷一堆。後面我就乾脆不提前訂房了，打算先看了再説。到了麗江，朋友推薦玉湖村一定要來，雖然是陰天，玉湖村真的很美，到處綠意盎然，空氣特別乾淨！可惜不久就下雨了，還越下越大，就臨時決定住在玉湖村了。攜程上一頓比較，最後選中了厚苑，現在想想還非常慶幸自己的決定。晚上的納西土雞火鍋熱氣騰騰，鮮美無比，我連喝了3碗雞湯，不敢想這是酒店住宿套餐裏包含在內的免費晚餐。晚上圍爐夜話，聊天的過程中得知這個酒店是著名設計大師的作品，更讓人肅然起敬的是這個酒店蓋了8年！！！在當今這樣一個“不見兔子不撒鷹”的現實社會，還真的有人在做情懷！ 第二天，雨依然沒停。豐盛的早餐之後，我們就坐在餐廳，邊賞雨邊和老闆聊天，別有一番興味。老婆還加了老闆微信，看到了老闆朋友圈晴天時的玉龍雪山和玉湖村，也太美了！以後來麗江衹住厚苑，不但景美，更因為老闆説厚苑是我們在玉龍雪山腳下的家！

沒想到雲南的夏天是這麼的冷，更沒想到的是厚苑的服務是這麼的熱情。頂着雨進的酒店，一路上都在下雨，本來有點煩，但是一進到酒店，大廳生着暖暖的壁爐，管家妹妹熱熱的擦手巾和火辣辣薑茶立即讓我們撿回了半條命，晚餐熱騰騰的土雞火鍋更是讓我們瞬間復活了。晚上圍爐煮茶時候聊的納西族的東巴文化更是讓我們聽呆了，不是第一次來麗江了，但是卻是第一次瞭解麗江。老闆姐姐的談吐和博學讓我們覺得這才是我們想要“遇見”的麗江。其他小夥伴們的服務就更不用説了，不來這裏就不知道什麼叫“無微不至”。第二天雨依然沒停，但是卻帶我們冒雨去了個神祕的木老爺的避暑後花園。百年的老樹，藍綠色湖水裡的大魚，帶着松香味的樹林，都讓我覺得我進入到另一個時空。這是一種難以描述的感覺，接下來要來的朋友們千萬別錯過這裏。可惜我們沒規劃好行程，衹在這裏停留一個晚上，還沒待夠呢！管家小姐姐説夏天還會帶客人采菌子的，簡直太嚮往了，暑假一定帶孩子再來二刷。厚苑的家人們，我們很快再見~

住過厚苑之後，再去其他酒店，總覺得差點意思。前幾天從麗江回來，途經昆明，住的也是五星酒店，可就是感覺哪兒哪兒都不對。 厚苑真的太特別了，簡直就是民宿裏的一股清流。這裏沒有網紅打卡的那種浮躁氛圍，衹有讓人徹底放鬆的靜謐和私密。 剛踏入厚苑，就好像闖入了世外桃源，一步一景，曲徑通幽，就像一幅幅國畫，緩緩展開，給人一種特別的氣場，讓人瞬間放鬆下來，渾身都舒坦。 厚苑的服務團隊，專業温暖，體貼入微，從提前安排接機到入住後的服務，那份恰到好處的分寸感，既讓人倍感關懷，又不失自在。 還貼心的給我升級了更好的房型，嗚嗚嗚～感動哭！ 各種精彩的體驗活動，宛如一扇扇窗，引領我深度領略麗江的自然神韻與文化脈絡，讓我徹底愛上了這片土地。 如果滿分是10分，我給厚苑打12分，真心期待下次能再和它重逢！

氛圍感超棒，房間簡潔大氣乾淨，設施配套也十分齊全。大廳營造的陽光和綠植光影流動的感覺完全是美學中的教科書級別。陳列的書籍，多處暖光源帶來的靜謐感讓人心情愉悦。服務真誠親切，恰到好處，餐食也是做得精緻美味，每個角落都能感受到靜謐和舒適。